May not directly help you but might work for someone! Going to try to remember this from memory it’s been a couple months since I’ve had to do it. Both of my printers are custom so this is what I do each time I have a new filament/type. It sounds like a lot but it’s maybe an hour of mostly wait time and I don’t do it again for the same type of spool unless I have an issue.
This is all based on running Klipper firmware and PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer and their built in tools for calibrating so YMMV:
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Create a new Filament (and new Print Settings dependent on the type of plastic, if necessary) in PrusaSlicer. For example maybe I am creating a new Print Setting for “ABS” if it’s my first time printing that type of plastic by cloning PLA, then add a new filament for the coloration. For example I might name it “Polylite ASA - Black” that way I can differentiate from the type of plastic, the manufacturer, AND the color. I typically will base the Type of an existing (e.x. PLA) and then tweak as needed (usually adjusting speed values).
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Temperature tower, look for both quality AND strength, you can make a plastic visually print great and have almost zero adhesion.
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Adjust values on Ellis3DP’s Pressure advanced tool to match the desired printers parameters and then upload and run the test. I like this one a LOT more than Klippers
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Set the pressure advance value for the new filament in PrusaSlicer.
Visually on the side of PrusaSlicer in advanced mode you would see:
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Print Settings: printer1 ASA (prefixing or suffixing is necessary if you have multiple printers)
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Filament: Polylite ASA - Black - printer1 (also necessary for multiple printers as you may have different settings between different printers)
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Printer: printer1
Generally speaking I only really need to get the temperature and pressure advance right and it’s dead reliable and I can print at speed. I have tuned PLA, PETG, TPU, ASA, Nylon, CF Nylon and Polycarbonate following these steps and it’s pretty set and forget.
I do this on my Xtool M1 with both the blade and laser cutter, both seem to work fantastic though the laser cutter leaves a little burnt residue.
Super easy to come up with the trace, just throw your part on a flatbed scanner, scan and trace it out in FreeCAD and send the SVG out for it to cut.
BBK actually doesn’t make a 61mm gasket (I believe for 3502 part number), it still has 58mm holes so you’re really better off just going custom when it’s $20 for the wrong gasket lol that you have to hack up anyways.
I love the reduced time to get things with this approach. I just keep enough of different types of FelPro gasket paper on hand and have them cut as needed, way faster than Amazon!
My friend has been running a Nylon IAC spacer ln his turbo 351W foxbody with two laser cut gaskets to go with it for over a year with hard racing in high temps and all of it has held up great.