You can muffle the beeper pretty effectively with some tape, the old air fryer we had terrified one of the dogs because of the incessant beeping. My coffee scale by default beeps whenever you touch it, thankfully that’s 100% mutable.

I also hate this.

Yeah, makes sense based on where the sensor is, my heater didn’t have a thermocouple on it so I drilled a hole for a thermistor midplate, it’s super slow to respond is the downside but in theory it should be accurate enough.

I don’t have experience with the bambu, in theory everything will experience thermal expansion but for the voron setup, the bimetallic construction is some of the issue, they have different thermal expansion properties so it can cause deflections. Part quality will vary wildly depending on sourcing too, vorons are very diy and open as the draw, but there’s just so much variability from sourcing, mods, assembly etc.

I have z braces on my bear modded mk3s too, things reliable as heck and easy to service.

It looked like you have a textured sheet? 0.2 mm variation over the entire built area isn’t huge, might be exaggerating it.

How much of a heat soak? If you’re going to the edge, let that sit for at least an hour, preferably more, look at Ellis’ page on thermal expansion, frame will absolutely expand. I use backers on my 2.4, gantry is giant bimetallic strip, backers do seem to help with that. Klipper does have the ability to correct for this as well, in that link. I do also have a kinematic bed mount (it’s coupled loosely to the frame, basically gives the bed room to expand), which again does seem to help, but I’d personally say heat soak is the first thing to do to achieve consistency.

And to echo others, degrease your bed with dish soap & water (unless your surface can be damaged, Buildtak that’s a no, don’t of that for example). If that’s a textured sheet, may need to give a bit more of a squish, but get it good and clean first. Ellis has some solid 1st layer calibration and troubleshooting guides to go through. For pei, personally I’ve found I needed to rough up the surface a bit with a brass brush, I don’t love pei on my voron, usually use buildtak but have had really good results with the fire resistant version of garolite.

Edit: read up on your probe, eddy current based? Sounds really interesting, my first point is probably moot, though possible you could be picking up the texture or if you have strong magnets it could affect it (my bed has an array of strong round magnets, seen others that are just a magnetic sheet), the do call that out in their FAQ.

I was looking through, generally custom macros are in the config folder, unsure if they’ve implemented it differently, here’s the Raise3D repo I found earlier, klipper has some code in c for the microcontroller stuff AFAIK with klippy in python, I’ve not personally dove into the code, just config and macro stuff largely.

Actually digging through a bit, there’s some gcodes in /klippy/gcode.py in the above repo I don’t see in the Mainline Klipper equivalent, like M9999, it might be a start, klippy lives on the host machine.

Yeah, didn’t think it was an image, just images in gcode are encoded.

I did find their github with a klipper config, but yeah, unsurprisingly it’s not there. You could see if it has documentation through the klipper console? I’m betting it’s not going to be in your klipper config unfortunately. Definitely leaning toward it being the portion that has the firmware validate the key and then set things up.

Prefacing this, I have no idea, can’t find any information either, I’m just speculating for what it’s worth.
.What’s kinda interesting is someone posted an identical one to the prusa forums like 2 years ago, no responses unfortunately.

I’m willing to guess it’s data, I’d wondered if it was unique per user but if you both have encountered it… don’t think that’s the case. I’m going to assume it’s sending a blob, vaguely reminds me of image thumbnails in gcode, but those are clear that’s what they are, maybe it’s some executable code that changes printer parameters or how the subsequent gcode is processed by the controller to support the HyperFFF mode.

Don’t love it personally, but I’m willing to assume they’re doing this way to obfuscate what’s happening because its proprietary rather than anything malicious. I don’t really have the tools or knowledge to really try to examine it further however, hopefully someone with that skillset is interested enough.

Edit: is this a cloud first printer? Also totally possible it’s just telling the printer to download something remotely to support that HyperFFF mode, again, can’t really tell, could be worth seeing what’s happening network wise.

Says a lot that it can run pretty much maintenance free for a year and a half! I only had issues with my mk3s doing daily enclosed abs prints in the summer, the original petg softened and it ended up killing the idler end of the x axis (idler mount deformed suddenly under tension after like… 1-2 months of that). They may not be the fastest or fanciest but they’re easy to service and in my experience pretty reliable, I repacked the linear bearings after a year or so out of precaution when I did a full rebuild, but I don’t expect needing to do that for a long time.

Here’s another prusa article for infill patterns, the prusa knowledge base is really decent and applicable to a variety of printers, I use my voron a lot but still refer to it.

Grid infill is crossing, get a decent blob or buildup and you could have nozzle collision, I personally like gyroid but it is slower.

Had a similar failure on the mk3s, what does the belt tension test return? Stealth mode may help or be the cause, anecdotally I’ve seen mention of motor temps, the old rambo board running stock firmware they got toasty when printing in the enclosure in the summer, stealth helped me limp it along until I did a board swap and changed to klipper. I don’t know if this is an issue with the mk4 as that’s not using the older Rambo based boards, but something to consider as well, had it happen even after I did the first abs rebuild.

Edit: too tight can also cause issues, not necessarily skipping but having it trigger the virtual endstop, prusa has an article for troubleshooting layer shifting. Also probably with checking both axis to ensure they’re smooth and consistent across travel, seen an over tight x carriage back cause too much resistance and have false triggers.

I’ve had fruit flies before that must have come in on some produce, have to be on it to clear them, leave out any fruit/veg scraps and they come out (out being tossed in the trash/green bin too, anything open air). Drop of dish soap, water and vinegar in a high walled glass or jar is the way to do it, I used balsamic but malt or wine vinegar works too, just leave that out and it’ll do its job.

My current place we jokingly call the spider house, have a bunch of house spiders around (cats love them) and a few orb-weavers, garden and wolf spiders outside, pretty much anything native isn’t a threat to humans or cats, they do a great job of taking out any pests, rarely see flies inside these days. Spiders and centipedes I’ll leave alone, they’re beneficial to have around.

I’ll third it, I used Solidworks before, freecad was fairly easy to adapt to before the 1.0 release, workflow is even nicer now, trying to convince my dad to move to freecad over paying for a sw subscription now that he’s retired.

I’m not sure how bambu studio does it (use prusa/superslicer) but chiming in because I was trying to figure this out last year doing a large ish batch of keychains for a friend and was fighting a bit with it, probably is a way of doing it all in freecad but the image was my biggest issue.

I ended up doing things in blender to subtract the image and the slicer itself, did a text object, positioned it where I wanted, merged the objects and marked the text as a negative volume (think that’s the term, might be subtract) so it was subtracted when I sliced it, might help in your case?

I was wondering if it was some sort of alignment/clamp for something like pipes or rods, or maybe some sort of bushing/bearing holders (think linear rods). Your tuning looks great btw, look pretty nice even in the worst case lighting conditions, adhesion not an issue doing this way? My dad asked me to print some stuff he designed for his beekeeping tools, has a bearing surface that’s awkward to print accurately, I’m probably going to revisit that with this as inspiration, other than the helper ears I see on the build plate anything else you did?

To ask questions, for the application does dimensional accuracy actually matter? AFAIK rebar isn’t exactly the tightest wrt tolerances (I know flat products, not long products, but knowing what hotroll coils look like I’m assuming it’s similar), could probably have gotten away with a different orientation and could probably have avoided supports (I find arches print nicely). Having said that though, thinking strength might be another reason to print the way you did, face down and you have shear & torsion in between layers, thinking that’s still a concern if you printed it standing, but yeah, just thoughts.

Edit: also spy kapton tape, did you find the bubble insulation made much of a difference? I’m putting what’s basically heat barrier fabric on the interior as a first try, I grabbed some rock wool and bubble insulation but it’s thick enough that I’m mildly concerned with it interfering with the gantry, having everything off for some refurb and wow I forgot just how close everything is, they really didn’t waste space eh?

Softening and that, maybe? But it really depends on the filament brand too, as far as I’m aware, acetone doesn’t readily dissolve in acetone which is what’s meant by not doing much

Petg is pretty resistant, why PETs used for bottles.

Personal experience cleaning up clogged nozzles by immersing them, yeah acetone barely touched the petg

Petg inside the enclosed though can definitely have a short service life, the original x axis idler on my mk3s gave up the ghost after a month or so of pretty consistent printing of abs in the summer, had expected it so i the first thing I did in abs was a set of prusa spares which lasted until I did a bear mod last year.
There’s obviously variation in filament though so YMMV, petg is still a solid material to use if you don’t have an enclosure (though I’m always recommending then if only for gasses and fine particles while printing)

I’ve found it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer as well as colour, some of the petg I’ve got has been chilling in my cabinet in the garage for at least 1 summer and it prints fine, just some stringing, other spools they’re a mess right out the bag. Still worth drying filament, but more so stuff like nylon which is extremely hygroscopic.

I’ve always known your world is complex, working closely with accountants and actuaries the last 4 years doing data applications further confirmed that, there’s some legitimately complex math that shows up, and it’s a lot of work to model that correctly.

“It’s just a …” Is a redflag to me, project’s going to be a gongshow.

I find that mentality of not trying to understand the problem and its context totally counter to the engineering method.

Personally, recommend forgejo, gitlab has a lot of features I didn’t need and I found the upgrade process if you didn’t keep on top of it annoying. Forgejo actions are pretty similar to github ones and setting up runners is super straightforward.

Mmmm, yeah that sucks, that first block I mentioned was an older style that wasn’t fixed in place and I must have twisted it accidentally after a nozzle change, super slow leak just enveloped the thing, didn’t help there either!

i was thinking along those lines for equipment monitoring stuff, klipper works with Prometheus & grafana (have metrics from my printers), was thinking about looking at using the extra accelerometers I have to do something like vibration monitoring.

I could see using a second sbc for extra sensors as well for support, thinking about printers that don’t run klipper, so long as you can correlate data it should still be useful. Honestly kinda thinking something similar to PLC data, was fantastic for fault finding and failure investigations, also useful for process control + condition based maintenance, there’s a heck of a lot that could be done with it.

Edit: You have me thinking about this now, what would be really cool is an ability to anonymously federate data tied to events, I recall some enterprise software I used like 5-6 years ago could do this with condition indicators, I have 2 machines, I won’t see every failure mode, but if we had 1000 machines you can get much more accurate information about things like MTBF. Heck I’d even just be happy with some community FMEAs, really just thinking of taking a technical approach to my printer maintenance and usage.