ffhein

It says “imported” so probably made for a fraction of that in China.

Official repo says $114 per arm, but I didn’t check their math :) https://github.com/huggingface/lerobot

Was just thinking that if the goal of your video was to showcase the difference between the bed slinger and the corexy, then it would’ve made a stronger point if you took advantage of its full potential. The MK4 even looks faster in the video, but I suspect it could be the angle and that the bed moving making its motions more visible.

At that printing speed I doubt it makes any difference if the bed is moving or stationary :) Surely the Prusa XL could go much faster than this?

I often refer to this list maintained by some people I trust over at the 3D Printing discord. Unfortunately it seems like they don’t update it as often nowadays, but Qidi Q1 Pro has been around for long enough, and it is indeed one of their top picks.

Hehe, PETG and glass is a notorious combination, I only printed it a few times but I put covered the bed with blue painter’s tape just to be on the safe side. I’ve never really had any adhesion problems after starting to use Magigoo (which I also never wash off, I just add another layer every few months) but occasionally I get a bit impatient waiting for the bed to cool down.

Good recommendations, it’s almost the same list of upgrades that I’ve done to my E3v2. I went with a dual Z-screw upgrade which uses a sync belt instead of a second motor, since I use the stock board and didn’t want to run two steppers off the same driver (it should work IIRC, but it seemed annoying if they get out of sync since the printer can’t level them individually)

Also never use that damn scraper everyone I know who has including myself has a scar from it lol

I use it all the time if a model won’t come off easily. I grab the blade between two fingers, and then hammer the model from the side with the handle to knock it off the plate :)

You do NOT need an all metal hotend with this, use the stock red one it’s all you need

Technically the hotend becomes “all metal” with this, as the PTFE-tube does not go all the way down to the nozzle after the upgrade. Best illustration I could find

The most common reasons to buy Prusa that I have heard are their 24/7 support, warranty and wanting to support a European company. I’m not entirely up to date with Chinese manufacturers, so things could have changed, but at least in the past Fysetc, Blurolls and even Trianglelab seemed to be on par, or even exceeding, Prusa quality for printers and parts.

Do you know how to check for bowden gap, and how to hot tighten the hotend/nozzle in order to prevent it?

Hope you decided to buy neither of the two in the end, since Flashforge is also known for being anti-consumer and their shady business practices. Out of the two I’d actually go with Bambu Lab if I didn’t care about openness and modding, since their printers at least seem to have fairly good quality.

I admit this is speculation, but I got the impression that Prusa is moving away from open source because they’re salty about other companies cloning their products and selling them much cheaper than the “original” parts. Proprietary parts, patents, etc. is of course worse for the user than a fully open ecosystem, but he isn’t necessarily going full anti-consumer.