In addition to Toyota Corollas and Honda Civics like others have mentioned, look for Mazdas as well. The Mazda 3 is a great car.
Aussie living in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Coding since 1998.
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In addition to Toyota Corollas and Honda Civics like others have mentioned, look for Mazdas as well. The Mazda 3 is a great car.
A part of this was that they wanted people to drive far so they’d have to replace their tires more often.
A few basic steps can keep Arch just as stable as anything else.
“stable” in this case means “doesn’t change often”. Is that actually doable with Arch?
Debian testing is usually good enough. Packages have to be in unstable for ~10 days with no major bugs to migrate to testing. Of course, you can run unstable if you really want to live on the edge.
If you do run testing, you’ll want to install security updates from unstable, since testing isn’t officially supported by the security team. https://github.com/khimaros/debian-hybrid
I think they’re pretty different cases.
Amazon’s one was essentially a side project for them, likely fully funded in-house using their R&D (research and development) budget.
In Nate’s case, it was their entire product. They received funding from investors purely for the AI functionality that didn’t actually exist or work. They specifically claimed that it did work, which is how they got the money. They spent all the investor money and had essentially nothing to show for it.
They already factored in some amount of tariffs into the US price. It’s not really that it’s cheaper in Japan, but rather it’s more expensive in the USA. It’s also US$65 cheaper in Australia, for example, and even cheaper in the UK.
(keep in mind that advertised prices in Australia and the UK include tax, so you need to subtract the tax to compare with US prices)
The tariffs are just a lot higher than everyone expected. Nintendo were probably preparing for a 20% tariff, not a 54% one.
Maybe! I’m sure there’s loopholes of some sort.
This is a rare case where a piece of consumer electronics is going to be quite a bit cheaper in Australia compared to the USA! Usually stuff costs more in Australia.
The Switch is currently US$450 and will probably go up with tariffs. Meanwhile, it’s listed as AU$700 in Australia, which is AU$630 before tax (all advertised prices include tax), which is US$385.
I imagine this is going to happen for a lot of devices. I’m an Aussie living in the USA and I never thought I’d see the day when buying stuff in Australia would be cheaper. Australia has better consumer protection too, around things like repairs/refunds due to major issues even outside the warranty period.
Do you not like reading the truth?
Absolutely. The console is manufactured in Vietnam, which now has a 46% tariff. I really doubt that Nintendo’s profit margin is high enough to allow them to just eat that cost.
But for there to be used cars, there needs to be new cars… How do the people that buy new cars pay for them?
I loved the explosion sound, and the “oh no” when you click the undo button. I have the Windows versions of KidPix on CD somewhere.
I don’t see any mention of torrents in the article?
Do you have any suggestions for fridge brands? A coworker suggested Jennair but they’re quite expensive.
Frigidaire French door fridge/freezer. Nice looking unit that came with the house. It has horrible design flaws though. Frigidaire literally invented the first self-contained fridge in the 1920s so I don’t understand why they’re so bad at building them.
One of the known design issues is that (at least on older models) there’s insufficient insulation between the ice maker and the rear of the fridge. This eventually results in condensation and ice forming on the back of the fridge. A web search for “Frigidaire ice on back” and “Frigidaire rust on back” will find plenty of people reporting the same thing.
The annoying thing is that the lines for the water dispenser and icemaker run right across this part, and they end up frozen inside the ice.
First time I noticed this was when the water dispenser stopped working a few months after we bought the house. Pulled the fridge out and the water lines were frozen, and it had made a mess of the wall (the drywall where the ice was was all broken - I guess drywall doesn’t like ice being pressed against it all the time).
I tried insulating it with some Styrofoam, but that was no match for the ice - the ice started forming on top of the Styrofoam instead. Now I’ve re-routed all the water lines so as to avoid the spot that freezes. I’ll get a new fridge eventually. Waiting for a good sale. For now, I’m wondering if I should spray foam it, or if the ice will also defeat that and form on top of the spray foam…
People started encountering this issue maybe 10 years ago. Frigidaire used to offer a “sweat kit” (some sort of fancy insulation) to fix it, but they no longer offer it. I also don’t think they ever fixed this issue under warranty for anyone.
Yeah this is the part I don’t understand. Does the remote not have onboard storage?
At work, quite a few people use Logitech mice, but the IT security team had to block Logitech Options because Logitech added some sort of AI functionality to it without adding a killswitch for enterprise customers… On the positive side, people learnt about alternative apps to reconfigure the mice that don’t have any of Logitech’s bloat.
iTerm added AI stuff but at least they added a killswitch (a setting in a plist file I think) to force it to be disabled.
Nvidia has been open-sourcing their drivers, but it’s been taking forever.
It’s been taking forever because they’re moving a lot of code into the firmware to keep it closed source. It’s essentially a brand new driver that takes advantage of newer firmware.
That’s one of the reasons the open-source driver only works with Turing (2000 series) and newer cards - they don’t want to spend the time updating older firmware to handle the open-source driver.
I don’t have experience with rust on cars since I live in California and the main conditions where cars rust (high humidity, snow / salt on roads) aren’t a thing here.
I’ve got a 13 year old Mazda 3 that doesn’t have any issues though. No rust, and no major repairs needed so far. I’m getting rid of it soon (replaced it with a BMW iX) but it’s served me well for a long time!