Only if the lock isn’t worn or dirty on the inside. I wouldn’t trust this for any outdoor lock or older lock. Even cheap locks with poor fit and finish causing rough operation would not be a good idea. This is a fun gimmick that could easily cost you more money than it’s worth.
The only way I might use it is if I were to use the 3D printed key as a pattern to cast a metal one. And I ain’t got time for that.
It’s still the same function at the base level-- to deliver and install/remove, in an easy manor, whatever software package the user wants to use/remove. Whether it’s a good system or not, is a separate issue.
Every Ubuntu based distro I’ve tested allows snaps. The highly touted beginner’s distro Linux Mint sure does. Even Fedora can use snaps and Ubuntu can use flatpaks if you want to be that silly. I have tested that both ways and it worked. But it was merely OKish. It’s just Ubuntu pushes snaps and Fedora pushes flatpaks. So snaps aren’t as insular as you seem to think.
For the user, there isn’t much difference between a snap, flatpak, deb, or rpm in use. The basic install or remove experience is meant to be the same, it’s supposed to be a carefully curated point and click. Even Gentoo’s portage is supposed to be simple for the user. The one other not quite as common, but a bit more universal installation method for users is the appImage package. I use several appImages because that’s the only way they are available. And personally, over the nearly 3 decades of fooling with Linux, I’ve had issues with all of the package management methods. I still have PTSD from being repeatedly caught in rpm hell back in the day or needing to compile from source. (Damn, I’m old)
The longer I use Linux, the more I think that whatever distro you choose, it’s more a matter of how you personally vibe with that distro than anything intrinsically better than the rest of them. Just about everything else is window dressing.
So basically, Ubuntu just with a different name and paint job. (I’ve used them both)
We are all at the most basic level, running pretty much the same kernel, one of the same small handful of desktop environments, and we choose from the same pool of software, (unless you need to get out into the weeds for a program on git hub). Everything else is either window dressing, (package mangers are window dressing-- they all do the same basic thing), or a choice on just how close to the bleeding edge we want to be, (rolling releases or immutable).
Celery is excellent that way. A peanut butter lover’s dream
No! CheezWiz with raisins or nothing! Just like my mother used to make.
My Acer Nitro with Aurora Says Hi!
(I’m thinking maybe going to Kinonite)
I think those linear rods and bearing are the weak part of the system. They are too prone to vibrations and whipping around at high speeds. But I’m too lazy to go after more upgrades on my printer at this point.
I do have a standard flow .60mm ObXidian for abrasive filament, but they were a LOT cheaper then. Plus I already have a lot of brass Revo nozzles already. But…I want.
It could be a fun project for the kids. A bit of googling should get you more information on different brands printers too. Plus all the open source projects available to do mods and accessories that can require some basic to moderate programming skills to be learned.
I know how hard it can be to kids to have enough fun to learn about how to use technology. I spent a few years teaching CAD and 3D printing to kids in school. I also tried to get the machine shop up and running again. But the school would not allow it.
If you open Bambu Studio, and click on the edit box to the right of you machine type and look at the first tab under Basic Settings, and in the Advanced section, its says G-Code flavor-- Marlin(legacy). Now, don’t mistake that for the firmware they use.
Your Bear mod will be a lot different than my stock frame and E3D Revo V6 hotend. The profiles I have been using are based on what I think I can get away with from what I learned about from the input shaping. I think you can get away with a bit more than I can. Particularly if you went from the 8mm linear rods to a set of linear rails. That would be far more rigid and vibration damping along with the heavier frame. Did you go with a high flow extruder too? I’ve been debating on a .40mm Revo ObXidian high flow nozzle lately. But The cost is high even for the Revo eco-system.
Yes, Prusa runs on Marlin which isn’t a bad thing, but so does Bambu printers.
Klipper does a few things for me.
Klipper allows for a lot of customization if you want it. Everything is a text file. And your printer.cfg is easily editable. And is a cheap way to turn your Mk3s/+ into a Mk3.5 for easily under $100US-- depending on what recommended RPi you decide to buy. Accelerometers are dirt cheap. I bought the expensive recommended $20 KUSBA plus a $5 data cable because I didn’t have one. The RPi 4b I already had for years.
It gives the Mk3s a 32bit controller thanks to a Raspberry Pi 4b running the printer now rather than the 8bit RamBo factory board. The RamBo merely relays the moves that klipper tells it to do.
I can now use an inexpensive accelerometer to setup input shaping very easily.
This gives the printer the ability to print faster without a drop in quality. I went from printing 45mm2/sec to 80mm2/sec and accelerations from 1200mm2 to 4000mm2.
This particular conversion is easily reversible in about 10 minutes if I should ever decide I don’t like it. It’s merely a matter of re-flashing the firmware to the RamBo. And reinstalling OctoPrint to the RPi.
This does not mean it’s now as fast as my mini. It’s not and never will be. But it’s far better than it was. For example, in this run of parts, when printing the same part, (identical test connector), with the same filament, the print times are within 10 minutes of each other. The only difference being the Mk3s has a .60mm nozzle installed and the Mini has a .40mm Nozzle installed. I run a .40mm nozzle in the Mini because Bambu optimizes it’s printers specifically for that size. And there is no difference in tolerances and quality. The parts are perfectly interchangeable.
If you are interested, this is the git hub I used to klipperize my Mk3s
Like you, I have an A1 mini but with the AMS lite, I seldom use it for multi color prints beyond some few pieces of simple signage. But, it’s very effective when you hang multiple materials or colors to do your single material/color prints. So I have to give them that point.
That said, when I bought the mini this last fall, I was all set to buy the Qidi X Smart 3-- only to discover it had been discontinued and off the website when I went to order. I just wanted a smaller and faster printer.
I see 3 reasons to save your pennies to get the Plus 4 over the Q1. It’s a bit bigger print volume, what appears to be better specs for printing those high end engineering filaments you want to print, and being a newer model it will be supported longer. The Qidi Box isn’t needed anymore than the AMS system you already don’t have. But I think you will be happier over the long run.
That is the rumor so far. Since the heads are going to be swapped out, it’s not difficult at that point. Vinyl cutters are pretty simple 2D machines. All you need is a knife, some rollers to feed the stock, and a couple of stepper motors to move the stock rollers and turn the knife. They can be quite large or small enough to sit on a desktop like a paper printer. I don’t see being able to make stickers as something a lot of people who are interested 3D printing are all that interested in. But maybe I’m wrong about that.
One thing I do know is history has a good number of examples of companies that thought they could make a multi-purpose machine of some kind. And that they would sell like hotcakes. None of them proved to worth the hassle of the setup time or turned out to be particularly good at any one thing. And they all proved in the end, to not be very popular with their customer base either.
The price. It’s going to be noticeably more expensive and probably more locked down than the X1C. You will be able to buy a Qidi IDEX system or Prusa Core 1 with their MMU for less money.
I have heard that there will be a laser and vinyl cutter attachments for the H2D also. That won’t end well for Bambu. The added complexity and rather useless power and size constraints for those add ons will make them a nearly useless cost for users and support headaches for Bambu.
Though I do give Bambu large credit for using the A1 series hot ends. They are inexpensive and fast to change out, (provided they don’t stick to the extruder making them a pain to remove).
Unless there is something they aren’t telling yet, I don’t see this as a popular money making product for Bambu.
I’ve switched away from DDG after many years of use. I have gone to Ghostery Private search. It seems to be better for my search results with a lot less garbage mixed in.
Yeah, you might want to grind your paper dry to prevent that.
A couple of quick things I see as an old toolmaker.
The first photo looks pretty darned good actually. Nicely textured and worn rustic. The top of the mold as filled nicely and it has dried without warping from what I can tell. The flashing around the bottom of the tile is to be expected and required for air and excess material to escape and allow for better fill. It can be simply removed with say, a dremel tool.
To get your material to fill better with the paper medium, you will need to either apply more pressure, which probably will not do your 3D printed mold much good. Or you need to use a wetter and looser material to get it to flow better and more easily. A more finely ground material will also flow better than paper that is simply torn into little pieces by hand. A tighter fit between the plunger and the frame of the mold with also increase the detail of the edges. But you still need to allow room for air and excess material to escape.
As far as mold release, you probably need to finish the inside of your mold better. Those layer lines will act like little velcro hooks. Sanding, filling, and painting to a smooth surface is a requirement for a good release. With a proper finished mold surface, a light spray of PAM cooking oil should be all you need for this.
First, how did you measure the rods? If you used a calipers, then the measurement is guaranteed to be inaccurate, (there is too much wishful thinking with a caliper). You need to use a real micrometer to get an accurate measurement for this job. Source: This old Toolmaker.
Second, I don’t know the manufacturing tolerances for those rods, but I have to think it’s more like +/-.01mm and not +/-.05mm. So I would assume you have irreparably damaged those carbon fiber rods by coating them in grease.
Third, yes the carbon fiber rods have absorbed some of the oils in the grease. This is not good. The good news is, if you contact customer service and talk to them, they can sell you a whole new xy carriage even though it’s only available from customer service and NOT their parts store. You might even need a whole new extruder and bearings to banish all traces of the grease.
You probably need to adjust those settings. Ironing settings can be fussy and the little I’ve done in Bambu Studio shows their settings aren’t much more than a starting point.
And there is little reason to do input shaping on the start of every print unless you change the mass of the moving parts by a noticeable amount. And even then, it does nothing once the print starts. You get what you get anyway when the print is finished.
What would be better is if a printer could measure and adapt to the changing resonances as the printer was printing. But I suspect that ain’t going to happen anytime soon due the complexity and the ultimate question: “How good does good enough really need to be.”