Largely agree, but I am curious. I also have an ethos of “trust, but verify” which this sensor scratches at. Why not measure even high quality filament?

It’s not that much more than a traditional runout sensor, so it seems worth springing for it your printer doesn’t have one.

Very curious to see how much this impacts print quality!

If prints were fine before the incident I would probably leave e-steps alone.

Agree 100% with the steps you outlined. To add on:

• when OP tells the printer to extrude during octoprint, what does the extruder do? Is the motor grinding (not enough tension) or clicking (indicative of a clog)?
• any new noises when printing?
• when OP pulls the filament out of the hot end, is there evidence of the gears grinding on the filament?

2x on the recommendation. I’ve been slowly modding mine for about two years now. I printed the filter and magnetic panels right out of the gate.

Things I wish I did sooner:

• sexbolt aka a z-endstop switch that won’t fall out when turn your printer out or get pulled out by your extruder when you’re printing TPU
• moar bed fans to get chamber temps up faster
• daylight on a stick
• LDO NiteHawk and umbilical. The third wire break was enough for me. I didn’t use cheap wiring, but I did use generic chains. I thought I left enough slack in the runs, but evidently you want loose loose wires in the chains so they don’t rub the inner radius
• ACM panels to help get chamber temps up. Bonus points if you print your magnetic panels clips a bit taller to fit radiant barriers on the inside
• Clicky-clacky fridge door replaces the front doors with a wider panel and gives it a nice seal. It’s also satisfying to open/close

Other than wiring breaks, and me goobering my hod end while goofing with it, it’s been dead reliable. The printer has 906 hours on it with the longest print clicking in at 25.5 hours.

I was thinking the same :(